Tailoring is an ancient craft, an artisanal knowledge passed on in a hierarchic way by the tailors themselves to their pupils. It consists of making custom clothes, with straight and fitted cuts, impeccable fit and precious and invisible sewing finishing (internal linings or bias).
The first publication with information on cutting and sewing for male clothes dates from 1589, in Spain. However, only in 1769 a deeper guide was written regarding the art of tailoring, L’Art du Tailleur, by François Alexandre de Garsault. The publication contained detailed information from how to take measurements and better utilize the fabrics to stitching and finishing techniques.
Initially, tailoring was a strictly male profession, with a political and union organization. Women were hired only for the manual sewing finishes. Female presence in garment factories guaranteed decent modeling. It was only with the scarcity of materials in the post-war period that women also started to use tailoring pieces, as their straight cuts wasted less fabric.
Today, the figure of the tailor has transformed. They are present in ateliers and garment workshops that provide a specialized and unique service for made-to-measure clothing.
We have selected two recommendations of films that portray the figure of the Tailor; one, a work of fiction, and the other, a documentary. One, a period piece, and the other, a film taking place in current times.
Phantom Thread, by Paul Thomas Anderson.
How to Make a Savile Row Suit – with Anderson & Sheppard.